H2 Pistol (Magnum) needs skinner...

[SMASH]

Here's a pic of the model:



I know it's not perfect but I need someone to skin it. If you are interested PM, AIM, or yell SMASH as loud as you can and I'll send the model over to you.

The person who skins it will get complete credit for the skin of the gun.

[[SK]Yourpain]

awwesome..better n better heh 9.5/10

[SnaFuBAR]

i suppose you didn't like our critique over at gbx. seriously, fix it before you bother someone to skin it.

seperate slide
seperate magazine
wider
fix the muzzle. it shoots 50 cal rounds, not bb's.

[[SK]Yourpain]

I know it's not perfect but I need someone to skin it.

he will most likely update =)

[SMASH]

Ok, I can change the barrel size but not the slider... Snaf, if you want to give a shot at it, I'll send it over... I tried and there's no geometry under the slider so the slider would come back and expose an empty area.

[SnaFuBAR]

then it's up to you to find references of pistols or use the h1 fp pistol mesh to see what it's like under the slide. i've modeled enough pistols. it's up to YOU to fix YOUR MISTAKES.

don't say you can't find any references blah blah blah. just go look. google is your friend.

[[SF]Mech]

THat gun shoots 50 cals D: How come they suck even whem duel wielded :/

[rossmum]

I've been wondering that one, too.

[Katarn]

Because halo sucks. Oh oops, I'm in a halo forum. Fix it and UV it and i'm sure someone would skin it.

[(sccan)dudz]

nice model

[dos mes]

The handle just seems like a simple flat extrusion for the most part But the rest is looking good aside from the already mentioned points *cough* barrel *cough*

[TheySayImCrazy]

Seriously... this has come up before but, what are you guys complaining about? I see nothing wrong with the model it is so accurate, and yet I praise bungies awesome weapon design. The smoothing groups on the front of the barrel give it a nice flow between hardedged flat surfaces and curvery (is that even a word? XD).

And lastly, that gun shoots 50 caliber rounds? I don't believe that. BTW the Mc's shields are so resistant to the pistols rounds now because his shields got both stronger, and they recharge faster. Halo 2 is a bit more realistic in the fact that on the battlefield armor will never be able to stop most bullets for long, because the enemy will adapt and develop ways to break through or around that armor. Modern games are unrealistic but, lets be honest in the fact that they are only games and realism != fun gameplay. There has to be just enough realism to be believable. A strong enough rifle round can actually pierce our MBT's. I saw photos of a rifle bullet that went through both sides of an M1 abram. 50 cal is the type of weapon seen on todays turrets such as those on humvees (or so I am led to believe, all I know is that it is a really powerful weapon ). I know that the MCG turret in halo 2 shoots 7.62 mm bullets. Seriously, adaptation is a matter of survival on the battlefield. If your current method, or weapon can't pierce enemy armor, what is the fucking point of being there? You're just going to get shot. This happens in iraq, and has happened in every war throughout the existence of humanity.

I know how to model, but my eye for scale and detail is something I have no acquired yet, and I lack the ability to combine my knowledge of modeling to create what I wish to create.

I think I see some flaws now The barrel top is kind of flat and hard angled, that could be fixed up easily with a chamfer. If your chamfer screws up, just select all the vertices and hit weld (make sure the thresh hold is far apart enough to not weld other necessary vertices together, distorting your model). The finger guard looks rather blocky, but those are difficult to model. What you could do is cut a shape in the polygons on the handle, that is the general shape you want the barrel to be, then extrude outward. When you want to alter the direction of the trigger guard, select the face on the end of the extrusion (or select the vertices making up that face) rotate it to the angle you like, and extrude again. When you finally meet the other end of the trigger guard, delete the face on the end and you can use these methods to merge the trigger guard end with the face on the bottom of the barrel:

Take the vertices making up the face end, rotate them or align them with the bottom of the barrel, and then make faces connecting the trigger guard to the end of the barrel.

Or if you want to do it the other way, cut a shape in the exact shape of the trigger guard, align it with the barrel bottom (z axis) and create faces connecting it to the bottom of the barrel. Then simply use the really cool bridge tool, to connect the two shapes. Before you make a new shape for it and potentially make it the wrong shape or out of proportion (you will have to do this before extruding the trigger guard) select the face you made that you extrude from, detach it from the model but don't move it. Select it and hit copy, make sure it is in the same orientation as the first one and move it out of the way (probably align it along the axis of your gun barrel). Simply reattach the original copy and select all the verices. Hit weld and it will be reattached. Then take the copy and align it with the bottom of the gun barrel. Create faces connecting it to the barrrel, and do the bridge technique.

The detach/attach/weld trick (I learned this from Katarn's tutorials) is useful for the cartridge/magazine part that snaf is talking about. The reason they want it seperate is so that you can animate it. For example if you want to make a reloading animation, you can't just pull the vertices making up the cartridge bottom and expect to get a full magazine to pop out (quite the opposite, it will warp your model horribly!). Here is what you should do:

Select the magazine bottom faces, and hit detach. Leave it in position but move it down on the z axis. Simply create a face across those open edges and extrude to make the magazine.

Take the gun barrel and make another face across it, then extrude upward into the gun to make the inside. No one will really see this area in game, but if you want to make an accurate sliding mechanism you can make the magazine inesert, detach it from the magazine, copy it as before, attach to the actual pistol,and align with the bottom of the handle. Create faces connecting this bottom, and reattach the original cartridge insert to the bottom of the magazine. Lastly just move the now complete magazine upwards to make the gun look convincing .

Heck, I could do this all for you if you would like. Export it to .3ds and send send it to me at tswcnl@yahoo.com . I'm not trying to pressure you, but it does seem like the model needs some work. [/list]

[Reaper Man]

how about no. don't waste polies kthx

[rossmum]

Seriously... this has come up before but, what are you guys complaining about? I see nothing wrong with the model it is so accurate, and yet I praise bungies awesome weapon design. The smoothing groups on the front of the barrel give it a nice flow between hardedged flat surfaces and curvery (is that even a word? XD).

Try again. It's the same general shape, but that's not an accurate model.

And lastly, that gun shoots 50 caliber rounds? I don't believe that. BTW the Mc's shields are so resistant to the pistols rounds now because his shields got both stronger, and they recharge faster. Halo 2 is a bit more realistic in the fact that on the battlefield armor will never be able to stop most bullets for long, because the enemy will adapt and develop ways to break through or around that armor. Modern games are unrealistic but, lets be honest in the fact that they are only games and realism != fun gameplay. There has to be just enough realism to be believable. A strong enough rifle round can actually pierce our MBT's. I saw photos of a rifle bullet that went through both sides of an M1 abram. 50 cal is the type of weapon seen on todays turrets such as those on humvees (or so I am led to believe, all I know is that it is a really powerful weapon ). I know that the MCG turret in halo 2 shoots 7.62 mm bullets. Seriously, adaptation is a matter of survival on the battlefield. If your current method, or weapon can't pierce enemy armor, what is the fucking point of being there? You're just going to get shot. This happens in iraq, and has happened in every war throughout the existence of humanity.

What the fuck has that last sentence got to do with anything? Also, check your facts... .50 caliber rifles have been used ever since the days of muskets and this century for machine guns (Browning M2), anti-materiel rifles (Barrett M82) and more recently they've started producing .50-cal handguns. You ever heard of a Desert Eagle?

I know how to model, but my eye for scale and detail is something I have no acquired yet, and I lack the ability to combine my knowledge of modeling to create what I wish to create.

We can tell for ourselves.

I think I see some flaws now The barrel top is kind of flat and hard angled, that could be fixed up easily with a chamfer.

No. Go look at a Halo 2 pistol.

If your chamfer screws up, just select all the vertices and hit weld (make sure the thresh hold is far apart enough to not weld other necessary vertices together, distorting your model).

Depending on how he modeled it, it may or may not screw up. Spline models give a LOT of chamfer errors, plane models usually don't. Either way, I wouldn't advise just selecting the lot and hitting weld, because that will distort the model anyway. Drag the rogue verts to where they should be, if they need welding then position them exactly where the ones you want to weld them to are, to prevent the model being distorted.

The finger guard looks rather blocky, but those are difficult to model.

No, they aren't. They're one of the easiest parts to model if you actually know what you're doing.

What you could do is cut a shape in the polygons on the handle, that is the general shape you want the barrel to be, then extrude outward. When you want to alter the direction of the trigger guard, select the face on the end of the extrusion (or select the vertices making up that face) rotate it to the angle you like, and extrude again. When you finally meet the other end of the trigger guard, delete the face on the end and you can use these methods to merge the trigger guard end with the face on the bottom of the barrel:

Take the vertices making up the face end, rotate them or align them with the bottom of the barrel, and then make faces connecting the trigger guard to the end of the barrel.

Or if you want to do it the other way, cut a shape in the exact shape of the trigger guard, align it with the barrel bottom (z axis) and create faces connecting it to the bottom of the barrel. Then simply use the really cool bridge tool, to connect the two shapes. Before you make a new shape for it and potentially make it the wrong shape or out of proportion (you will have to do this before extruding the trigger guard) select the face you made that you extrude from, detach it from the model but don't move it. Select it and hit copy, make sure it is in the same orientation as the first one and move it out of the way (probably align it along the axis of your gun barrel). Simply reattach the original copy and select all the verices. Hit weld and it will be reattached. Then take the copy and align it with the bottom of the gun barrel. Create faces connecting it to the barrrel, and do the bridge technique.

DEAR GOD NO. Create a 1x1 plane and divide faces, drag the resulting verts to match the points of inflection on your references, and then extrude, clone, mirror, attach and weld the seam. Drag verts to get the right width and then if you want, select all the edges except the ones at the ends, and chamfer. Smooth it and attach to the rest of the gun.

The detach/attach/weld trick (I learned this from Katarn's tutorials) is useful for the cartridge/magazine part that snaf is talking about. The reason they want it seperate is so that you can animate it. For example if you want to make a reloading animation, you can't just pull the vertices making up the cartridge bottom and expect to get a full magazine to pop out (quite the opposite, it will warp your model horribly!). Here is what you should do:

Select the magazine bottom faces, and hit detach. Leave it in position but move it down on the z axis. Simply create a face across those open edges and extrude to make the magazine.

Take the gun barrel and make another face across it, then extrude upward into the gun to make the inside. No one will really see this area in game, but if you want to make an accurate sliding mechanism you can make the magazine inesert, detach it from the magazine, copy it as before, attach to the actual pistol,and align with the bottom of the handle. Create faces connecting this bottom, and reattach the original cartridge insert to the bottom of the magazine. Lastly just move the now complete magazine upwards to make the gun look convincing .

It could be the fact I'm half alseep, but the bit about the barrel is making approximately 0 sense to me...

Heck, I could do this all for you if you would like. Export it to .3ds and send send it to me at tswcnl@yahoo.com . I'm not trying to pressure you, but it does seem like the model needs some work. [/list]

I'm quite sure from what you've said that you're not the person to do this.

Now for some REAL advice.

The barrel is too small in diameter, it looks like it shoots needles. Also as you won't really see this ingame, just use a 7- or 9-sided cylinder and don't bother about the actual bore.

Second- the handgrip looks like it's too narrow (the whole gun is also a bit on the slim side), widen it a bit and chamfer the front and back edges so it's less of a box. Do as I said above for the trigger guard, and add a trigger. Back of the gun needs total redoing, it isn't faithful to the Halo 2 pistol, I can see open faces and the safety switch is just plain awful. The sights need adding too... just redo everything behind the grip. Remove some of the smoothing on the muzzle of the gun, detach the slide and magazine and make a chamber similar to the Halo pistol.

Also, post some wireframes and a polycount, and tell me what method of modeling you're using.

If you need any other help, PM or IM me.

[Dole]

Oh, for the love of God, he's back again...

[xXxCocoFangxXx]

I like the Model. I would help Skin, but I can't do it on my Comp.

[The science of Kaboom]

fix the muzzle. it shoots 50 cal rounds, not bb's.

well in halo2 the pistol shoots bbs even though its supposedly .50cal i shot a marine in the face and he lived lol, so i guess bungie is ballistically challanged.

[TheySayImCrazy]

Also, check your facts... .50 caliber rifles have been used ever since the days of muskets and this century for machine guns (Browning M2), anti-materiel rifles (Barrett M82) and more recently they've started producing .50-cal handguns. You ever heard of a Desert Eagle?

Meh, I'm not a gun person, I've never shot a gun before . I know nothing about the terminology surrounding guns, I really have no use for a gun. Desert eagles are a weapon I've seen in some games (the game Farcry (which I like) has a desert eagle, and it is a very good weapon).

What the **** has that last sentence got to do with anything?

the Mc's shields are so resistant to the pistols rounds now because his shields got both stronger, and they recharge faster.

I probably should have stated that, that is my theory about why the pistols are so weak in halo 2, my mistake. the halo 2 pistol fires a 12.7 mm round (According to the halo manual). The BR fires 9.5 mm rounds, in burst fire. I guess accuracy is the determining factor in a weapons damage in halo 2, since the halo 2 pistol cannot do much damage. That explains why the sniper rifle is the best weapon in the game if you can handle it well.
This:

Halo 2 is a bit more realistic in the fact that on the battlefield armor will never be able to stop most bullets for long, because the enemy will adapt and develop ways to break through or around that armor. Modern games are unrealistic but, lets be honest in the fact that they are only games and realism != fun gameplay. There has to be just enough realism to be believable. A strong enough rifle round can actually pierce our MBT's. I saw photos of a rifle bullet that went through both sides of an M1 abram. 50 cal is the type of weapon seen on todays turrets such as those on humvees (or so I am led to believe, all I know is that it is a really powerful weapon ). I know that the MCG turret in halo 2 shoots 7.62 mm bullets. Seriously, adaptation is a matter of survival on the battlefield. If your current method, or weapon can't pierce enemy armor, what is the fucking point of being there? You're just going to get shot. This happens in iraq, and has happened in every war throughout the existence of humanity.

Are supporting reasons and examples to explain why the MC's shields are stronger and thus the pistol does not do as much damage as it did in halo 1.

I wouldn't advise just selecting the lot and hitting weld, because that will distort the model anyway.

Well that only happens if your weld thresh hold happens to be large enough to select vertices that are not supposed to be welded. For example if you made a pistol and the vertices that make up the width of the gun are within your weld thresh hold, your model will get messed up because of the too large weld threshold.

Rossmum seems to think that his way is the best way

BTW your bold paragraph was nearly exactly what I had recomended.

I have communication problems, I cannot explain what I want to convey easily.

What you could do is cut a shape in the polygons on the handle, that is the general shape you want the barrel to be, then extrude outward. When you want to alter the direction of the trigger guard, select the face on the end of the extrusion (or select the vertices making up that face) rotate it to the angle you like, and extrude again. When you finally meet the other end of the trigger guard, delete the face on the end and you can use these methods to merge the trigger guard end with the face on the bottom of the barrel:

Take the vertices making up the face end, rotate them or align them with the bottom of the barrel, and then make faces connecting the trigger guard to the end of the barrel.

Or if you want to do it the other way, cut a shape in the exact shape of the trigger guard, align it with the barrel bottom (z axis) and create faces connecting it to the bottom of the barrel. Then simply use the really cool bridge tool, to connect the two shapes.

Before you make a new shape for it and potentially make it the wrong shape or out of proportion (you will have to do this before extruding the trigger guard) select the face you made that you extrude from, detach it from the model but don't move it.

Select it and hit copy, make sure it is in the same orientation as the first one and move it out of the way (probably align it along the axis of your gun barrel). Simply reattach the original copy and select all the verices. Hit weld and it will be reattached. Then take the copy and align it with the bottom of the gun barrel. Create faces connecting it to the barrrel, and do the bridge technique.

Can be summarised:

Create the general shape of your trigger guard metal into the front side of the handle. I mean, if you are looking at a cross section of the trigger guard, you will want to make this shape into the front face of the handle. Once you have that tattooed onto the face, extrude the shape outward. Once you want to change the direction of the extrusion, simply select the end faces, go to the side view of your model (this gun for example) and rotate them to get the shape you want.

Then extrude that face outward again, repeat this step to get the shape you want. To merge the extrusion with the ceiling faces on the bottom of the gun barrel: select the face on the end of the extrusion, hit detach. Clone it, and it move it up on the Z axis to align with the ceiling/bottom of the gun barrel.

If the clone is not aligned with the barrel, simply rotate it to meet your needs, via the side view. Delete the faces making up the bottom of the barrel, attach the clone to the gun. Attach the original face to the gun: select all the vertices and weld them (making sure the thresh hold is acceptable).

The face that you detached so you could clone it, is now reattached to the trigger guard extrusion (if you did not move it). Create faces connecting the edge of the clone (which is now connected to the gun) to the open edges of the ceiling bottom of the gun barrel. Select the original face, and the clone, and then use the bridge tool.

Select the magazine bottom faces, and hit detach. Leave it in position but move it down on the z axis. Simply create a face across those open edges and extrude to make the magazine.

Take the gun barrel and make another face across it, then extrude upward into the gun to make the inside. No one will really see this area in game, but if you want to make an accurate sliding mechanism you can make the magazine inesert, detach it from the magazine, copy it as before, attach to the actual pistol,and align with the bottom of the handle. Create faces connecting this bottom, and reattach the original cartridge insert to the bottom of the magazine. Lastly just move

Just to clarify (as I did with my previous paragraphs), the magazine bottom is the part that extends from the bottom of the gun, and slightly outward so that it acts as a stopper. You want to select the faces making this up, and detach it. Create a face across the open edges of both the magazine bottom, and the gun handle bottom.

On the magazine bottom, create faces across the open edges to seal up those open edges, and then extrude that upwards to create the magazine stock. On the bottom of the gu handle, inset the face you created across the bottom of the gun handle, and then extrude that inset upwards.

No one will see the inside of this, nor will it really matter if the magazine clip fits visually inside this hole. I forgot to mention but I am sure I implied, you can add the designs to the magazine stock (such as a long slide in the magazine) as well using your own methods.

To replicate this design on the inside the gun handle, just detach the stock (leaving the magazine bottom). Clone the detached magazine stock and attach the clone to the gun handle. Flip the faces of this attachment, and create faces across the open edges of between the magazine stock and the gun handle bottom. Reattach the original stock and do the welding trick I showed you earlier.

[JK-47]

Because halo sucks. Oh oops, I'm in a halo forum.

Whhhy are you here?

Looks pretty good SMASH, but like Snafu said, fix the barrel and the slide.

[rossmum]

I wouldn't advise just selecting the lot and hitting weld, because that will distort the model anyway.

Well that only happens if your weld thresh hold happens to be large enough to select vertices that are not supposed to be welded. For example if you made a pistol and the vertices that make up the width of the gun are within your weld thresh hold, your model will get messed up because of the too large weld threshold.

You're wrong, actually. Unless they are in the exact same location it will weld them somewhere in the middle, thus distorting the model.

Rossmum seems to think that his way is the best way

Because I know quite a bit about modeling and I know for a fact my way is far less complex, far quicker and far less wasteful.

BTW your bold paragraph was nearly exactly what I had recomended.

Which bold paragraph? About the trigger guard? No, it wasn't even vaguely similar. Please avoid trying to give modeling advice, if you can't tell the differences then you aren't likely to be helpful at all.

I have communication problems, I cannot explain what I want to convey easily.

Then don't try... let someone else tell them.

What you could do is cut a shape in the polygons on the handle, that is the general shape you want the barrel to be, then extrude outward. When you want to alter the direction of the trigger guard, select the face on the end of the extrusion (or select the vertices making up that face) rotate it to the angle you like, and extrude again. When you finally meet the other end of the trigger guard, delete the face on the end and you can use these methods to merge the trigger guard end with the face on the bottom of the barrel:

Take the vertices making up the face end, rotate them or align them with the bottom of the barrel, and then make faces connecting the trigger guard to the end of the barrel.

Or if you want to do it the other way, cut a shape in the exact shape of the trigger guard, align it with the barrel bottom (z axis) and create faces connecting it to the bottom of the barrel. Then simply use the really cool bridge tool, to connect the two shapes.

Before you make a new shape for it and potentially make it the wrong shape or out of proportion (you will have to do this before extruding the trigger guard) select the face you made that you extrude from, detach it from the model but don't move it.

Select it and hit copy, make sure it is in the same orientation as the first one and move it out of the way (probably align it along the axis of your gun barrel). Simply reattach the original copy and select all the verices. Hit weld and it will be reattached. Then take the copy and align it with the bottom of the gun barrel. Create faces connecting it to the barrrel, and do the bridge technique.

Can be summarised:

Create the general shape of your trigger guard metal into the front side of the handle. I mean, if you are looking at a cross section of the trigger guard, you will want to make this shape into the front face of the handle. Once you have that tattooed onto the face, extrude the shape outward. Once you want to change the direction of the extrusion, simply select the end faces, go to the side view of your model (this gun for example) and rotate them to get the shape you want.

Then extrude that face outward again, repeat this step to get the shape you want. To merge the extrusion with the ceiling faces on the bottom of the gun barrel: select the face on the end of the extrusion, hit detach. Clone it, and it move it up on the Z axis to align with the ceiling/bottom of the gun barrel.

If the clone is not aligned with the barrel, simply rotate it to meet your needs, via the side view. Delete the faces making up the bottom of the barrel, attach the clone to the gun. Attach the original face to the gun: select all the vertices and weld them (making sure the thresh hold is acceptable).

The face that you detached so you could clone it, is now reattached to the trigger guard extrusion (if you did not move it). Create faces connecting the edge of the clone (which is now connected to the gun) to the open edges of the ceiling bottom of the gun barrel. Select the original face, and the clone, and then use the bridge tool.

Select the magazine bottom faces, and hit detach. Leave it in position but move it down on the z axis. Simply create a face across those open edges and extrude to make the magazine.

Take the gun barrel and make another face across it, then extrude upward into the gun to make the inside. No one will really see this area in game, but if you want to make an accurate sliding mechanism you can make the magazine inesert, detach it from the magazine, copy it as before, attach to the actual pistol,and align with the bottom of the handle. Create faces connecting this bottom, and reattach the original cartridge insert to the bottom of the magazine. Lastly just move

Just to clarify (as I did with my previous paragraphs), the magazine bottom is the part that extends from the bottom of the gun, and slightly outward so that it acts as a stopper. You want to select the faces making this up, and detach it. Create a face across the open edges of both the magazine bottom, and the gun handle bottom.

On the magazine bottom, create faces across the open edges to seal up those open edges, and then extrude that upwards to create the magazine stock. On the bottom of the gu handle, inset the face you created across the bottom of the gun handle, and then extrude that inset upwards.

No one will see the inside of this, nor will it really matter if the magazine clip fits visually inside this hole. I forgot to mention but I am sure I implied, you can add the designs to the magazine stock (such as a long slide in the magazine) as well using your own methods.

To replicate this design on the inside the gun handle, just detach the stock (leaving the magazine bottom). Clone the detached magazine stock and attach the clone to the gun handle. Flip the faces of this attachment, and create faces across the open edges of between the magazine stock and the gun handle bottom. Reattach the original stock and do the welding trick I showed you earlier.

That one? That wasn't even close. Not at all. Don't post until you know what you're talking about, you aren't helping.